Time Travel - Elle Canada November 2005
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Time Travel –  Put your best face forward with these decade-defying tips from the experts.

by ALISON GARWOOD-JONES 

20’s 
Starter kit: An oil-controlling cleanser, a mild exfoliator, a toner for pore refinement, a day moisturizer with an SPF of at least 15 and a night moisturizer. 
What happens: “Women in their 20’s can suffer from oily skin, extra-large pores and outbreaks of hormonal acne,” says Dr. Lisa Kellett, a Toronto based cosmetic dermatologist. But for those blessed with a flawless and glowing complexion, take note: before your 20th birthday, your skin has already acquired 20 percent of its capacity for photo damage. 

What a dermo can do: “I prescribe a range of topical or oral antibiotics for acne, everything from benzoyl peroxide and clindamycin to Accutane, which range in price from $30-$250 a month.” 

For the sun goddess, Kellett performs prescription-grade chemical peels ($300-$400 a session) to combat the early signs of photo-aging. “But I’ll only do that after giving my patients ‘the talk’ and arming them with a bottle of sunblock.” 

30’s 
Starter Kit: A cleanser and mild exfoliator, a toner, a day moisturizer with an SPF of at least 15, an eye product to protect against the onset of fine lines and sagging and a rehydrating night moisturizer. 
What happens: The sun damage stored in your skin’s memory bank start to show it’s hand. “After 35, the skin begins to change,” says Kellett. The metabolism of the basal cell layer slows down, making the skin less resilient, less capable of retaining moisture and more open to fine lines. Don’t stop laughing, but do hydrate and get lots of sleep to turn up the glow in your face. 

What a dermo can do: Topical prescription-grade vitamin A, in a cream or gel, is one of the only treatments proven to reverse some of the signs of photo-aging. “the most popular brand I use is Retisol-A with sunblock,” says Kellett. (The creams and gels start at $30). It lightens the skin and lessens the effect of fine lines, dark spots and rough patches by revealing lower layers of fresh skin. “I’m also a big believer in the benefits of antioxidants,” says Kellett, who recommends upping your intake of blueberries and pomegranate juice to 250ml a day. 

40’s 
Starter kit: You will need an anti-bacterial cleanser and mild exfoliator, a day moisturizer with an SPF of at least 15, the occasional multivitamin anti-aging mask to reduce redness and restore suppleness and a night moisturizer. 
What happens: You may have noticed a pimple or two on your chin and along your jawline. What gives? There has been a huge incidence of acne in adult women,” says Kellett. “ It’s partly stress-related, and possibly the result of diets high in refined carbs.” The contours of your face also change. Cheekbones hollow out from the loss of fatty tissue and laugh-lines settle in. 

What a dermo can do: Topical vitamin A creams and gels are still recommended, but so are intense pulsed light treatments ($400-$600) for reducing brown spots, fine lines and redness. Laser treatments ($350 and up) work well on broken capillaries. Photo rejuvenation therapies that use aminolevulinic acid are becoming popular because they cut treatment times in half. Five to six treatments (at $550-$650 each) significantly improve texture and pigment in acne-and rosacea-prone skin. 

50’s 
Starter kit: A moisturizing cleanser, a serum or facial oil to rehydrate the skin, an anti-aging product that lifts and firms, a day moisturizer with an SPF of at least 15 and a night moisturizer. 
What happens: The biggest change takes place in the structure of the skin’s connective tissues. Collagen and elastin fibres aren’t as tightly organized as they used to be, so you’ll notice a drop in the skin around the jawline and eyes. Meanwhile, you’re producing less oil as you enter menopause, which results in much drier skin. Thinning skin also makes you more prone to sun damage. 

What a dermo can do: The same treatments for women in their 40’s apply to women in their 50’s, such as vitamin A, light and laser treatments, but Kellett adds erbium laser therapy to the list for this age group. “Erbium is a resurfacing laser that burns off the top layer of skin. It creates an overall improvement in brown spots and some fine lines, but it’s mostly used to burn off precancerous spots, which are a lot more common in your 50’s.” 

Treatments start at $2300. For those who don’t want to come back again and again for light treatments, this is good one stop shopping.

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